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WHAT IS EXFOLIATION AND HOW TO EXFOLIATE THE FACE?

Exfoliation is the process of clearing away dead skin cells and impurities through either a chemical ingredient or textured scrub or tool (physical). The top layer of the skin, the epidermis, comprises 5 layers, the stratum basale being the first, deepest layer of the epidermis, and the stratum corneum being the outermost layer. This stratum corneum is made up of tightly compacted dead skin cells that are a natural result of the skin cell cycle. As new skin cells undergo cell proliferation, they move up to the outer layers of skin. Exfoliation supports and promotes the skin cell’s natural cell renewal and development cycle by essentially speeding up the final stage, improving skin texture.

Read more to find out more about exfoliation, including the benefits of exfoliation, types of exfoliators, how to choose the right exfoliant for your skin type and how often you should exfoliate.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF EXFOLIATING THE FACE?

Smooths skin texture

By clearing away dead skin cells and excess oil on the skin's surface, regular exfoliation creates a smooth, even skin texture.

Supports radiant skin

One of the key benefits of exfoliating is the way it can brighten up and revitalise your skin. Regular exfoliation gives you radiant, glowing skin by clearing away impurities and promoting skin cell renewal.

Improves product absorption

By clearing away impurities and dead skin cells, exfoliation supports a smooth, clear skin surface to allow for other products, including any active ingredients targeting skin concerns, to absorb well into the skin.

Promotes collagen production

When you exfoliate consistently, you can help support the natural cell renewal cycle, exfoliating your skin can help to promote collagen production that creates new skin cells. These new skin cells help to achieve clearer, more youthful-looking skin.

Unclogs pores

By removing dead skin cells, exfoliating helps to unclog pores and reduce the chances of breakouts and overly oily skin.

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF FACE EXFOLIATORS?

There are two types of exfoliators, chemical and physical.

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF CHEMICAL EXFOLIANTS?

Chemical exfoliants, specifically alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), use chemicals to break down the bonds between dead cells. AHAs and BHAs both cause a chemical reaction in the surface of the skin to cleanse the skin and remove impurities. Compared with physical scrubbing methods, chemical exfoliation has a lower chance of irritating the skin, which is why it's generally recommended for sensitive and dry skin types.

ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAS)

Extracted from sweet fruits, AHAs, also known as alpha hydroxy acids, are a water-soluble ingredient that works by breaking down and loosening the bonds between dead skin cells at the skin's surface. As stated by Tang SC, Yang JH. "Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin" (Molecules. 2018 Apr) include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and citric acid. AHAs tend to be gentler compared with BHAs.

BETA HYDROXY ACIDS (BHAS)

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are an oil soluble chemical that can penetrate deeper layers of the skin to exfoliate the pore lining while removing excess sebum. BHAs like salicylic acid are best suited to blemish-prone and oily skin types but are much harsher than AHAs and PHAs.

POLY HYDROXY ACIDS (PHAS)

PHAs also exfoliate by breaking up bonds between old skin layers at the top layer of skin, but are much gentler on the skin, making them best for sensitive skin types.

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF PHYSICAL EXFOLIANTS?

Physical exfoliants, also known as mechanical exfoliants, work to exfoliate the skin by mechanically scrubbing the skin with a textured substance or tool. Common methods of physical exfoliation include:

Using scrubs with tiny particles that, when rubbed onto the skin, physically exfoliate and remove dead skin.
Employing brushes designed to gently brush away accumulated dead skin cells.
Utilising textured gloves in the bath or shower that effectively scrub off the layers of dead surface cells.

Physical exfoliants are suited to oily and combination skin types needing a deeper cleanse. Softer, micro-scrubs, such as the Micro Exfoliating Face Scrub are a gentler approach to physical exfoliants and are often found in certain exfoliating cleansers.

HOW TO EXFOLIATE YOUR FACE CORRECTLY?

1. CHOOSE THE RIGHT EXFOLIATOR FOR YOUR SKIN TYPE

The most important thing to remember when it comes to choosing the correct facial exfoliant is understanding your skin type. As mentioned earlier, exfoliants fall under two categories:
chemical exfoliators and physical exfoliators. The best way to exfoliate will depend on your specific skin type, skin sensitivities and your skin goals or concerns.

Which exfoliants are best for sensitive skin and how often should you use them?

Gentle, chemical exfoliation is best for sensitive skin types. Non abrasive, leave-on exfoliants containing AHAs, BHAs or PHAs break down bonds between dead skin cells without irritating skin.
If you do want to use a physical exfoliant, look for micro-exfoliators and gentle scrubs formulated with hydrating ingredients. A soft washcloth while cleansing can also work to lightly buff the skin without causing too much friction.
Frequency: Moderation is key with sensitive skin, so start gentle exfoliation once a week and monitor your skin’s reaction before increasing the frequency.

Which exfoliants are best for combination skin and how often should you use them?

Because combination skin has to navigate both oily and dry skin, you might benefit from both chemical and physical exfoliation. Make sure not to use more than one exfoliator at a time. Instead, alternate between chemical and physical exfoliators, depending on how your skin is reacting.
Frequency: Exfoliate around 2-3 times a week.

Which exfoliants are best for dry skin and how often should you use them ?

If you have dry skin on your face, you want to use exfoliants that don't impact the skin's moisture levels. Chemical exfoliators containing gentler lactic acid, glycolic acid, and hydrating active ingredients exfoliate the skin without stripping the skin's moisture barrier. Dry skin types should make sure to counterbalance exfoliation with hydrating serums and moisturiser.
Frequency: Dry skin types should limit exfoliation to once or twice a week.

Which exfoliators are best for oily skin and how often should you use them?

If you have oily skin you'll want an exfoliator that can deeply cleanse the skin, removing dead skin cells and excess sebum on the skin's surface. Exfoliate with a chemical exfoliants containing a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) like salicylic acid can help to dislodge and break down dead skin cells to decongest oil-clogged pores. Because this skin type tends to have thicker skin, you can also use physical exfoliators, including face scrubs and exfoliating tools. A facial mask containing clay can also purify and deeply cleanse the skin.
Frequency: Oily skin types can exfoliate 2-3 times a week, but you should still monitor your skin’s response.

2. GRADUALLY INTRODUCE NEW EXFOLIANTS

If you’re using a new facial exfoliant, gradually introduce the product by using it once a week before increasing the frequency. This will, of course, depend on the product, so always read instructions to ensure proper use. Monitor your skin’s reaction and adjust accordingly.

3. USE ONE EXFOLIATING PRODUCT AT A TIME

You only need one exfoliating product at a time, whether chemical or physical types. If you have a combination skin type and find benefit in both chemical and physical exfoliants, alternate between the two products, giving the facial skin a day off in between use.

4. MONITOR YOUR SKIN FOR REACTIONS

Pay close attention to how your skin reacts after you exfoliate. Any sensations of tightness or discomfort may be indicative that you’re using the product incorrectly or apply too frequently. If necessary, decrease usage intervals or opt for a milder exfoliant.

WHAT'S THE NEXT STEP AFTER EXFOLIATING THE FACE?

Your post exfoliating skincare helps minimise the chances of over exfoliation or irritation. As exfoliants have cleared away the outer layer of dead skin cells, SkinCeuticals recommends counteracting the effects by hydrating the skin and balancing out the moisture barrier.

Recommended skincare products after you exfoliate the face:

Refresh the skin and balance out the skin’s pH with the Equalising AHA Toner
Use the Hydrating B5 Serum following exfoliation to rehydrate and nourish the skin.
After exfoliating at night, use a night cream like the Renew Overnight Dry Hydrating Moisturiser to support the skin’s overnight renewal process.
In the daytime use a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect your skin from environmental aggressors. Exfoliants can leave the skin more sensitive to UV exposure, so a sunscreen, like the Ultra Facial Defence SPF50+ Sunscreen, is a must. *

ALWAYS READ THE LABEL AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS FOR USE.

Apply 20 minutes before sun exposure. Sunscreen is only one part of sun protection so wear protective clothing and seek shade. Avoid prolonged sun exposure. Reapply every 2 hours and after swimming, towelling and perspiring in accordance with directions.

HOW TO AVOID OVER EXFOLIATION?

Facial exfoliation can occasionally cause skin irritation if used too frequently or if used on highly sensitive skin. This is why it’s imperative that you choose an exfoliator that works for your skin.

If you're introducing a new exfoliating product to the skin it's good to monitor how your skin reacts before adding it to your regular routine. Even if you don't have an adverse reaction to the product itself, you might find your skin doesn't respond well to the exfoliating method or product.

If redness, peeling, swelling or irritation occurs, stop exfoliating. You can consider reintroducing an exfoliant after your skin shows signs of considerable improvement. Monitor how your skin reacts again when reintroduced. One way to prevent over-exfoliation is by following your exfoliant with a humectant serum, like a hyaluronic acid serum, to ensure the skin remains nourished and hydrated.