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Chemical vs Physical Exfoliation: What's the Difference?

Article Overview

Exfoliation is a key skincare step to assist the natural skin cell renewal process and encourage brighter, smoother, healthier-looking skin. Different exfoliating skincare products remove dead skin cells in various ways, so it’s important to understand how they work and the optimum benefits for your skin type and concerns.
Skincare products can contain physical or chemical exfoliants, or a combination of both – and there are distinct benefits associated with each. Read on as we unpack the differences between chemical vs physical exfoliants so you can find out which type of exfoliation is right for you.

What is chemical exfoliation?

This method of exfoliation uses alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or fruit enzymes to reduce the buildup of skin cells, smooth skin texture, and improve the appearance of discolouration. Chemical exfoliants work by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells so that they shed more easily.

A chemical exfoliant is non-abrasive and can be found in a range of skincare products: like cleansers, peels, toners and spot treatments. However, you’ll commonly see them formulated in exfoliating serums like the Blemish and Age Defense Salicylic Acid Serum which is applied topically to dry skin after cleansing.

What are the benefits of chemical exfoliation?

Chemical exfoliation benefits lie in their ingredient composition of AHAs and BHAs. AHAs (like glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, and citric acid) help promote skin cell turnover and bring fresh skin cells to the surface. Meanwhile, BHAs (such as salicylic acid and lipo-hydroxy acid) are oil-soluble, which means they can penetrate the skin surface more deeply.

The benefits of chemical exfoliation include:

Removing blackheads and unclogging pores
Visibly correcting uneven skin tone and texture
Smoothing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Brightening skin tone and targeting hyperpigmentation
Sloughing rough, dry patches
Helping to prevent blemishes

What is physical exfoliation?

Also referred to as ‘manual’ exfoliation, physical exfoliation includes the use of buffers, cloths, dry brushes, loofahs, and files – as well as skincare products formulated with ultra-fine granules – to scrub away dead skin cells, smooth the skin surface, and refine the appearance of pores.

You’ll typically see a physical exfoliant formulated as a ‘scrub’, and the ideal physical exfoliants are formulated with particles that have a smooth surface – rather than jagged seed or shell fragments that might scratch or injure the skin. The Micro-Exfoliating Face Scrub is a prime example as this daily scrub combines hydrated silica particles for physical exfoliation with glycerin and aloe vera extract for a moisturising cream base.

What are the benefits of physical exfoliation?

Physical exfoliants work by manually scrubbing the outermost layer of dead skin cells to reveal smoother, brighter skin underneath. Physical exfoliation benefits the skin by:

Refining the appearance of pores
Brightening the appearance of skin tone
Providing an immediate smoothing effect on the skin
Stimulating the production of collagen to boost skin elasticity

Chemical vs physical exfoliation: 6 key differences

Between ageing, hormonal fluctuations, sun exposure, and other internal changes, there are many factors that can slow down your skin cell turnover and trigger a buildup of dead skin cells. Before you can address your concerns with a physical or chemical exfoliant, though, you’ll need to discern which is right for your individual skin type.

From application methods to skin suitability and potential drawbacks, read on as we unpack the six key differences between chemical vs physical exfoliants.

1. Mechanism: how they work

The mechanics of chemical vs physical exfoliation are indicated in their names:

Chemical exfoliation uses AHAs, BHAs or enzymes to generate a chemical reaction on the skin that dissolves a buildup of dead skin cells – effectively ’ungluing’ their bonds.
Physical exfoliation relies on the joint efforts of manual scrubbing and exfoliating particles to remove the outer layer of dead skin.

2. Depth of exfoliation

How deeply you exfoliate will differ between physical and chemical exfoliants:

Chemical exfoliants penetrate the skin surface to loosen the bonds between dead skin cells. Being water-soluble, AHAs exfoliate the skin surface, whereas oil-soluble BHAs penetrate deeper into pores to unclog them – this is why many people turn to salicylic acid for blemishes.
Physical exfoliants tackle the very surface layer of the skin, sloughing dead skin cells to reveal the fresh skin cells beneath the topmost layer – this can have a visible, immediate effect.

3. Suitability for skin types

You’ll need to be cognisant of which type of exfoliation is most compatible with your skin type to enjoy the benefits:

Chemical exfoliants are less likely to upset the skin, so they are often compatible with most skin types: including oily, normal, combination and dry, as well as blemish-prone skin. However, BHAs like salicylic acid are quite potent, so they’re better suited to tolerant skin types. If you have sensitive skin, you might opt for a poly hydroxy acid (PHA) which is a gentler exfoliating ingredient.
Physical exfoliation is appropriate for many skin types, including dull, dry, and oily skin – but it can be overly harsh on sensitive skin and is generally not recommended for anyone with active blemishes.

4. Exfoliation frequency: how often should you exfoliate?

When performed regularly, exfoliation can be incredibly beneficial – but how often should you exfoliate your skin? This should be determined by a few key factors:

Your skin type – normal, dry, oily, combination, or sensitive skin will all behave differently. Normal and oily skin types are usually more tolerant to stronger chemical exfoliants and more frequent use of a physical exfoliant. A combination or dry skin type may be better suited to less regular exfoliation – at least to begin with.
Your age – as you get older, skin cell turnover slows down, so your complexion may benefit from more frequent exfoliation to keep it looking its best and brightest. Be aware, though, that skin also becomes thinner with age, potentially making it more sensitive to the exfoliation process.
Your type of exfoliation – chemical exfoliants containing AHAs or BHAs can be used daily on tolerant complexions, providing you build up to that frequency slowly. Physical exfoliants should be used less frequently to avoid sensitising the skin.

As a general guide:

Chemical exfoliants can be applied one to three times per week, depending on your skin type and the strength of the ingredient.
Physical exfoliation can be performed one to two times per week, but avoid over-scrubbing to prevent disrupting the skin moisture barrier.

5. Potential drawbacks

The goals of both physical and chemical exfoliation are to minimise the buildup of dead skin cells on the skin’s surface and reveal radiant, healthy-looking skin – but there are some drawbacks to factor in.

Removing this uppermost layer of skin can increase its sun sensitivity, so it’s especially important to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning when using a physical and/or chemical exfoliant. Our pick – the Ultra Facial Defense Sunscreen SPF50 – offers very high-level protection against UVA and UVB rays.

You might also find that your skin is on the drier side, so be sure to nourish your complexion with a replenishing moisturiser like our Triple Lipid Restore 242 Anti-Ageing Moisturiser. This ceramide-rich face cream is suitable for all skin types to support the natural function of the skin moisture barrier.

6. Which one is better?

To help you definitively decide which type of exfoliation is better for your skin type and needs, we’ve created a list of check points below:

For blemish-prone or sensitive skin – chemical exfoliation is the gentler option.
For immediate smoothness – consider physical exfoliation for faster results.
For anti-ageing benefits – chemical exfoliants work on a deeper level for visible and textural ageing concerns.
For normal to oily skin – you might benefit from a combination of both methods (a mild chemical exfoliant and the occasional gentle physical exfoliation).

Next, put your physical and chemical exfoliant research into practice and find your ideal exfoliating face wash and cleanser.