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HYPERPIGMENTATION: TYPES, CAUSES AND STEPS TO MANAGE IT

Hyperpigmentation is the umbrella term for a range of skin concerns that affect melanin production (cells that determine the skin’s pigment or colour) of the skin; appearing as red or dark spots, dark patches, and uneven skin tone. There are many different types of hyperpigmentation, and as such, different causes. Hyperpigmentation can be long-lasting or appear over time, and while some dark patches and uneven skin tone can’t be avoided completely, certain skincare ingredients, professional steps and preventative steps can be highly beneficial in visibly reducing their appearance.

WHAT IS HYPERPIGMENTATION?

Hyperpigmentation refers to an array of skin concerns surrounding the skin’s pigment, visible skin discolouration and the production of melanin. Hyperpigmentation varies in shape, size and colour, and location, appearing as either tan or brown patches, red spots or purple/bluish marks on the skin. While hyperpigmentation isn’t an actual skin condition, it may be symptomatic of a skin condition.

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF HYPERPIGMENTATION?

Hyperpigmentation can vary in depth, shape, size, and colour, and can appear on different areas of the skin. There are a few different types of pigmentation, some genetic (like freckles), some caused by external factors (like sun exposure), and some by internal factors (like hormonal hyperpigmentation).

FRECKLES

Freckles are small, flat spots that show up on both the face and the body. Freckles are largely determined by genetics, but they can appear more prominent with increased sun exposure, and are more common in pale skin.

SUN SPOTS

Sun spots, age spots, liver spots, or solar lentigines, are flat brown spots that show up on sun-exposed areas; the back of the hands, tops of the feet, shoulders and upper back, and the face. They’re a result of accumulated melanin caused by sun exposure. As we age, these spots become more prominent, which is why they are interchangeably referred to as age spots.

MELASMA

Melasma, or chloasma, is a type of hyperpigmentation caused by uneven melanin production triggered by hormonal changes. It’s also called the “mask of pregnancy” because these hormonal changes are common during pregnancy, especially the second and third trimesters. Melasma manifests as large, blotchy patches on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and jawline, and is more common in darker skin.

PIH (POST INFLAMMATORY HYPERPIGMENTATION)

Blemishes, burns or cuts can leave dark marks or spots due to irritation to the area and the surrounding skin. If superficial, they can go away over time, but some marks can last years or even be permanent.

WHAT CAUSES HYPERPIGMENTATION?

The causes of hyperpigmentation vary, but the most common causes are:

Changes in hormonescan affect melanin production.
Repeated sun exposure triggers the formation of melanin (pigment cells), accumulating over time and manifesting as dark spots.
Certain skin tonesare more likely to develop hyperpigmentation.
Geneticscan impact your propensity for pigmentation.
Some medicationsthat affect hormones, like the contraceptive pill, can impact melanin production and cause uneven pigment.
Skin irritation, either from blemishes, burns or cuts.

HOW TO GET RID OF HYPERPIGMENTATION

While some hyperpigmentation may not go away completely, you can take some steps to visibly correct dark spots and existing hyperpigmentation, as well as steps to prevent dark patches and spots from developing. Skincare, certain treatments, and preventative lifestyle measures can all go a long way in minimising the risk of further hyperpigmentation.

SKINCARE INGREDIENTS FOR HYPERPIGMENTATION

Hydroquinone

Also called alpha-arbutin, hydroquinone works by inhibiting tyrosinase responsible for melanin synthesis. It targets the pigment on the outer, surface layers of the skin, promoting the breakdown of melanocytes and visibly fading dark spots.

Retinoids

Retinoids and retinol are vitamin A derivatives that speed up the cell renewal cycle to promote collagen production. By promoting collagen production, retinoids reveal fresher, more evenly-toned skin, visibly reducing ageing skin concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity and age spots.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C, or l-ascorbic acid, plays a role in neutralising damaging free radicals from the environment that can worsen hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C in skincare also helps to reveal a brighter, more radiant complexion.

Azelaic acid

Found naturally in barley, wheat and rye, azelaic acid helps to visibly reduce redness and pigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, a melanin-producing compound. This ingredient can also help neutralise free radicals that can irritate the skin and cause red spots and marks.

Kojic acid

A byproduct of fungi and fermented foods, kojic acid inhibits the production of melanin, helping to visibly reduce hyperpigmentation.

Alpha hydroxy acids

Alpha hydroxy acids are a type of chemical exfoliant that targets discoloration by breaking down bonds between dead skin cells, removing pigmentation on the outer layers of skin and promoting skin cell turnover to reveal fresher, more even skin.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide is a vitamin B3 derivative that breaks down pigment cells to help fade existing hyperpigmentation. This ingredient also promotes the production of essential lipids that make up the skin’s moisture barrier, helping to prevent discoloration caused by environmental aggressors.

Licorice extract

The compound liquiritin found in licorice root extract breaks down the production of darker pigment to help lighten these areas of the skin for a more even skin tone.

Tranexamic acid

An ingredient derived from amino acids, tranexamic acid has skin brightening benefits that can help with discoloration and skin tone.

PROFESSIONAL TREATMENTS

Certain professional treatments can help improve skin discolouration and uneven skin tone, depending on your skin type and skin concerns. But, if you are considering professional treatments, you should always speak to a healthcare practitioner or clinician to discuss whether the treatment is suitable for you. Common treatments include:

Cryotherapy:Cryotherapy is a treatment that uses liquid nitrogen to freeze and break down pigment accumulated pigment cells that cause dark patches.
Fractional laser therapy:Heat energy targets deep layers of the skin to promote collagen production and visibly reduce pigmentation.
Microdermabrasion :This treatment uses an abrasive handheld tool to improve skin tone on the outer layers of the skin.
Chemical peels :Chemical peels are exfoliating treatments that removes the outer layers of dead skin cells to smooth out skin and visibly reduce spots and marks on the skin’s surface.
Laser therapy :Different types of laser treatment can help promote collagen production to support a more even skin tone.
Intense Pulse Laser :Also known as a photofacial, this laser treatment uses pulses of light energy to break down excess melanin that leads to pigmentation
Microneedling:A handheld device uses very smile microneedles to break down pigment skin cells and promote the skin cell renewal process for fresher, brighter skin.

HOW TO PREVENT HYPERPIGMENTATION

It isn’t always possible to completely prevent hyperpigmentation forming, but there are preventative measures you can take to minimise the chances of hyperpigmentation.

1. SUN PROTECTION

With sun exposure a major player in age spots, prolonged exposure to the sun can exacerbate dark spots and trigger the formation of pigment cells that lead to sunspots. Sun protection, including protective clothing and a broad-spectrum sunscreen with high SPF, is an essential part of your daily skincare routine. You should also be avoiding peak sun hours where the UV index is higher, which is typically between 10am and 3pm.

2. AVOID PICKING THE SKIN

If you’re prone to breakouts or are struggling with skin irritation, avoid picking at it. This can affect the surrounding skin and cause red spots and dark marks to spread. The same goes for popping pimples.

3. USE GENTLE SKINCARE

Harsh chemicals can strip away the skin moisture barrier, which leaves your skin vulnerable to environmental aggressors that can lead to and exacerbate hyperpigmentation. Choose gentle skincare formulas, especially for sensitive skin types.

4. INCORPORATE ANTIOXIDANTS

Antioxidants are incredibly beneficial for preventing visible damage from environmental aggressors. By neutralising harmful free radicals, antioxidants, like vitamin C, promote a brighter, more even skin tone, while preventing existing hyperpigmentation from worsening.

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HYPERPIGMENTATION AND HYPOPIGMENTATION?

Hyperpigmentation is defined by accumulated pigment cells and an increase in melanin production. Hypopigmentation, on the other hand, is a lack of melanin production. Instead of darker patches, skin appears lighter in certain areas where there are little or no pigment cells. Vitiligo is an example of a type of hypopigmentation.