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Retinol Side Effects: Addressing Common Concerns and Debunking Myths

Article Overview

There’s a lot of information online about retinol, and not all of it offers an accurate explanation of how retinol works, its side effects, and what to expect. Below, we’ll outline the top retinol myths so you can make an informed choice when adding it to your routine.

Myth: All retinoids are the same

Fact: There are many types of retinoids that have different formulas and strengths. Retinoids like retinol, retinal, and tretinoin differ in strength, conversion process and efficacy, affecting their suitability for different skin types and their timeline for noticeable results. Some topical retinoids, like tretinoin, are also only available with a prescription, while retinol and retinal are over-the-counter options.

Myth: Retinol is only for mature skin

Fact: Retinol is often marketed as an anti-ageing ingredient because of its ability to speed up skin cell turnover that slows down as we age. While this is true, this property is not just beneficial for mature skin, and the ingredient is often used to address other skin concerns, like blemishes, uneven skin texture or hyperpigmentation. Retinoids may be recommended for use on younger skin that’s struggling with persistent breakouts or to manage excess oil production. Skin cell turnover and collagen levels before the age of 25 are generally high, so it’s not necessary to seek products for ageing skin concerns, but retinol is used widely across skin concerns outside of ageing skin.

Myth: Retinol offers instant results

Fact: Visible improvements can take around 4-6 weeks to appear, but in some instances it can take longer. Retinol works by penetrating deeper layers of the skin, and these layers will take time to reach the surface. It’s important to be patient and consistent when using retinol, as the benefits take time.

Myth: Stronger retinol equals better results

Fact: The strength of retinol will depend on your skin’s tolerance for the ingredient, but strength doesn’t necessarily correlate to results. The rule is to start at the lowest possible concentration and increase as the skin acclimatises, but you may find a lower strength is enough to achieve the results you’re hoping for.

Myth: retinol thins the skin

Fact: Retinol does not thin the skin in the long term. In fact, it can actually have the opposite effect by supporting collagen production, which can thicken the skin and improve its overall structure. When starting retinol you might notice initial dryness, peeling, and redness, which might give the impression of thinning skin, but this is a normal part of the retinisation process. With continued use and regular moisturiser this initial dryness and flaking subsides, and the long-term benefits of increased collagen production become apparent, leading to thicker, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin.

Myth: You should stop using retinol is you notice peeling or dryness

Fact: When first starting out, retinol does cause side effects, known as the “retinisation process”, which may include mild skin irritation, peeling or flaking skin. This is just your skin adjusting to the ingredient, and should subside within a few weeks, so don’t jump the gun by stopping the process! That being said, if side effects are causing too much discomfort, or if they haven’t gone away within a few weeks, you may need to cut back, stop using the product or seek professional advice.

Myth: You need to use retinol every day to see results

Fact: Retinol use will affect different skin types in different ways, and it’s not necessary for everyone to aim for daily use to see noticeable results. If you find your skin tolerates retinol just a few days a week, and you’re seeing visible results, don’t feel you have to up your frequency. If you stop seeing results or if your skin has built a tolerance, these may be signs to increase retinol concentration or frequency.

Myth: Retinol is not suitable for sensitive skin

Sensitive skin types can use retinol, but need to be more cautious than other skin types. Your skin will react to retinol regardless of skin type, but having sensitive skin might mean side effects will feel more intense. Instead of opting out of retinol for sensitive skin, keep usage to a minimum, using at most a couple of times a week. Make sure to follow with a hydrating serum and moisturiser to manage dryness.

Myth: Retinol exfoliates the skin

Fact: Retinol is not an exfoliant, but rather an ingredient that supports skin cell turnover. Exfoliants, like salicylic acid and glycolic acid, do offer a similar skin benefit, they work by breaking down bonds between dead skin cells, which supports the skin’s natural skin cell turnover process. Retinol won’t break down dead skin cells and in fact may contribute to an increased buildup of dead skin, so it’s important you’re still including regular exfoliation in your routine. It’s usually best to alternate between an exfoliant and a retinol product to prevent skin irritation.