Article Overview
- A powerful antioxidant, vitamin C provides many benefits to our overall health, including the appearance of youthful-looking, radiant skin. A collagen promoter and skin brightener, vitamin C is commonly found in skincare products offering anti-ageing and antioxidant properties. This widespread popularity has seen the emergence of different types of vitamin C and derivatives, all of which aim to support the natural skin cell renewal cycle, protecting and restoring skin cells exposed to everyday life. But not all types of vitamin C are the same. This article will help you understand the different types of vitamin C variations and how they can benefit your skin.
WHAT IS VITAMIN C?
Vitamin C is a naturally occurring antioxidant that is required to maintain collagen production, amongst other things. As collagen is an essential protein and one of the major building blocks required for the skin, vitamin C is highly beneficial in improving skin texture, supporting a glowing complexion and preventing premature ageing. By fighting free radicals – unpaired electrons that cause oxidative stress and affect the skin’s appearance – vitamin C protects and restores balance within the skin. This helps visibly improve fine lines, wrinkles and discolouration.
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF VITAMIN C?
Vitamin C can be obtained in many forms including through food, dietary supplements, and the topical application of vitamin C enriched skincare products.
VITAMIN C IN FOODS
Vitamin C is found in a variety of fruits and vegetables. Citrus fruits like oranges, grapefruits, lemons, and limes are well-known sources. Other good sources include berries (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries), kiwi, and pineapple. Capsicum, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and dark leafy greens like spinach and kale are also rich in vitamin C. Because our bodies don't naturally produce vitamin C, it's important to incorporate it in your diet to prevent vitamin C deficiency.
VITAMIN C DIETARY SUPPLEMENTATION
Many dietary supplements are fortified with vitamin C (calcium ascorbate), among other beneficial vitamins. Vitamin C supplements support a number of bodily functions, including supporting immunity and helping with the absorption of iron, among other health benefits. Vitamin C supplementation is a good option if you aren't getting enough vitamin C through your diet.
TOPICAL VITAMIN C
Topical vitamin C is found in skincare products and absorbed directly into the skin to provide antioxidant protection and offer a number of skin benefits. Topical vitamin C is found in vitamin C serums, creams and gels, varying in concentration and formulation.
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF TOPICAL VITAMIN C?
Vitamin C comes in a number of forms, varying in efficacy and potency. Different forms of vitamin C provide the same basic benefits for skin, but they differ slightly in their chemical structure and how they are absorbed and used by the body. Here are the most common forms:
PURE VITAMIN C (L-ASCORBIC ACID)
Pure vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is a potent and refined version of vitamin C. The antioxidant benefits of L-ascorbic acid work to neutralise free radicals and reduce signs of photoageing. Ascorbic Acid highly effective at brightening skin, reducing hyperpigmentation, and promoting collagen synthesis. In higher concentrations, however, it may be too harsh on sensitive skin types, and it has a higher chance of oxidising when exposed to light and air.
MAGNESIUM ASCROBYL PHOSPHATE (MAP)
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) is a water-soluble, stable derivative of vitamin C. It's less potent than L-ascorbic acid but gentler on the skin and less likely to cause irritation. MAP needs to be converted to L-ascorbic acid by the skin's enzymes to be effective, so it may not be as potent as LAA, but it is a good option for sensitive skin and offers good antioxidant protection.
SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE (SAP)
Another stable, water-soluble derivative, SAP is also less irritating than L-ascorbic acid, but it's also effective in visibly reducing redness and reducing breakouts, making it a good choice for blemish-prone skin. Similar to MAP, it needs to be converted to LAA by the skin.
Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA2G)
AA2G is a stable, water-soluble derivative that’s also considered a gentler vitamin C form. This form converts to L-ascorbic acid by enzymes in the skin upon application. While less potent than L-ascorbic acid, it’s well-tolerated by most skin types.
ASCROBYL PALMITATE (AP)
Ascorbyl palmitate is a form of vitamin C that is fat-soluble. It’s one of the few forms of vitamin C that can be delivered in a cream consistency and offers the skin an effective dose of antioxidative skin protection. With the primary benefit of brightening your skin, choose ascorbyl palmitate for a creamy textured derivative of vitamin C that offers lipids protection from peroxidation and works to eliminate free radicals.
ETHYL ASCROBIC ACID (EA)
This stable, oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C is known for its ability to easily penetrate the skin for enhanced skin benefits. It's one of the most stable forms of vitamin C for topical use, offering skin brightening, anti-ageing, and antioxidant benefits.
TETRAHYEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE
A stable, oil-based form of vitamin C, tetrahexyldecyl has emerged as one of the stronger antioxidant supplement formulations. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is also effective on sensitive and sensitised skin, deeply penetrating the skin without causing further irritation. A powerful antioxidant, the concentration of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate should be within 3-5%.
VITAMIN C WITH BIOFLAVANOIDS
Bioflavonoids are a collection of plant-based compounds which can be found in food such as certain fruits and vegetables. A potent antioxidant, bioflavonoids help transport and enhance the benefits of other antioxidants such as vitamin C. When this rich antioxidant is compounded with vitamin C, the bioflavonoids strengthen and enhance its effects for skin, while also slowing the vitamin C decomposition process.
WHAT IS THE MOST EFFECTIVE FORM OF VITAMIN C FOR SKIN?
While derivatives of vitamin C can be absorbed into the skin, they won’t always convert into active vitamin C. Many factors that impact how effective vitamin C skin care products are – including the vitamin C concentration, concentration of other active ingredients, the pH level, and stability of the formula. As L-ascorbic acid is the purest form of vitamin C, it's considered one of the most effective, which is why SkinCeuticals uses this form in its skincare products. In brief, an effective L-ascorbic acid formula should include these features:
- To ensure optimal efficacy, the percentage of pure vitamin C within the formula should be between 10% to 20%.
- The product must be formulated to be 3.5 pH or lower in order to keep the vitamin C stable and in its active form, allowing it to penetrate the skin.
- Combine with other antioxidants like vitamin E and ferulic acid to improve vitamin C's efficacy. By incorporating multiple antioxidants, vitamin C is more easily absorbed into the skin and can be more effective against free radicals.
THE IMPORTANCE OF PROPER VITAMIN C STORAGE
Proper storage and packaging play a significant role in maintaining the benefits of vitamin c for the skin. Look for stable forms of vitamin C in airtight, opaque packaging to avoid exposure to light and air that can oxidise the product and reduce its potency.
VITAMIN C IN SKINCARE PRODUCTS
SkinCeuticals’ studies into the skin benefits of vitamin C have set a benchmark for antioxidant skincare innovation. L-ascorbic acid is at the core of SkinCeuticals product range, with founding scientist Dr. Sheldon Pinnell, M.D., conducting pivotal research on topical antioxidants, including Vitamin C. His work led to a breakthrough discovery demonstrating the ability of pure vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) to neutralise free radicals.
Our range of skincare, including SkinCeuticals Vitamin C Serums, is developed by scientific experts, with formulas carefully tested to maximise efficacy and deliver results in real-world situations, on real skin. Take our vitamin c quiz to find out which one is right for you.
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